London Fashion Week started whilst storm alerts and images of the eye covering the entire British island dominated the news. But as I watched the fashion pack descend to the white pillars of Somerset House, signs of doom and gloom were nowhere to be seen. It must have been the worst weather LFW has ever seen and with many coming across from a snow torn NYW, it was so inspiring to see that fashion never lost its magical touch. However, as the fashion goers demonstrated London street style with incredible creative fury, I was starting to see a dark trend as the long awaited shows began at the courtyard space and around London. Although Christopher Raeburn’s sports lux outerwears and polar bear sweatshirts provided some muted colours, monochrome seemed to be the common vibe with Haizhen Wang showcasing his signature masculine tailoring and Amanda Wakeley’s girls strutting down in all black items completed with midriff clinching leather belts. It was as if London had been covered by black mist.
The haziness faded instantaneously as I was greeted by Fiona Ranson and Georgina Edmonds (the designer duo) at Pavane’s A/W14 show space. Inspired by Sophie Calle, the A/W14 collection was full of rich colours and romantic mature themes. The story of a woman waiting for her lover in a Parisian hotel room oozed from every piece – masculine tailored coats (the coat borrowed from her lover), sheer white trousers with kimono-esque side stitching (the clothes she took off as she waited in the hotel room), wine red calf hair coats (the wine she drank as she waited for him), wool floral jacquard dresses (the wallpaper in her hotel room) and 1930’s lingerie style dresses (the slip she wanted her lover to see her in). The collection was a full story of intimacy, vulnerability and sensuality and a triumph which showcased clothing which can be strong without sacrificing femininity.
Fiona and Georgina are a perfect designer duo combining Fiona’s pattern cutter expertise and Georgina’s textile designer background. I was definitely hooked by the label’s creativity and detailed workmanship. My only hope, a full catwalk show for S/W15.
Pavane AW14 Look Book can be found here.